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How Dogs Work!

  • Motivators: food, toys, belly rubs, freedom!

Whether interacting with your dog through training or just trying to keep them busy while you're away, your dog deserves something worth their while for being so well behaved. Even if it's just staying off the furniture or looking back at you on a walk, your dog should be rewarded with something more than just verbal praise. Treats ranging from low to very high value can be very appreciated by your pooch. Keep in mind though, just because you see a steak as an A+ reward, doesn't mean your dog always will.  Examples of treats grades:

A = Chicken, steak, turkey, etc.

B = Cheese, liver flavored treats bought from petstore.

C = Everyday dry kibble/ treats.  Every dog has a food drive regardless of what some may say. If your dog doesn't take the treat, try a higher value of reward or skip a meal and have the dog work for their food! Also consider whether or not your dog is beyond their behavior threshold or over stimulated. Don't let some trainers trick you into moving away from positive reinforcement and toward using a shock collar because the dog "won't take a treat". Always question your surroundings and see why your dog is not taking a very high/ reliable treat that they generally salivate over!

Toys are also a great reward for dogs who enjoy fetch, chewing tennis balls, tugging a rope toy, etc. Again every dog will choose which toy is Grade A and Grade C.

Some dogs prefer to have their space and alone time, and understandably so! After a good training session or grooming, give your dog thier independence. That might go a lot furhthr than trying to smother them with love or treats! ;)

  • Wolf/ Alpha Theory & Dominance!

You may have heard of some canine myths relating to wolves from long ago, but contrary to popular belief, dogs are not wolves. The closest they could be related to wolves would be a 6 month old wolf pup. Imagine that, a fully grown dog at the golden age of 19 yrs, has the mental equivalence of a 6 month old puppy. That mind gap is why dogs are so easily manipulated. When a wolf reaches full maturity, they are much stronger, faster, and smarter then dogs, and likely a lot of humans, not to mention the instinctual aspect of a wolf's life. Just try to put a shock collar on a wolf, or try to tackle them down to the ground, just try to show them how big and bad you are. Who do you think is going to win in that scenario? A wolf will not put up with our simple needs for them to act like a human for a second, and rightfully so! Why should they listen to us if all it gets them is relief from a painful correction or a simple "good dog" in a monotonous voice. They don't put up with anything that doesn't make sense to them, and I agree with that reasoning! 

If people need to use such archaic tools with metal and electricity to control a "puppy", what does that say about how we communicate with "Man's Best Friend". Wolves are not constantly fighting for dominance, and neither are dogs. A wolf pack consists of an alpha male and female, meaning the parents. The other pack members (being family members) are the aunts, uncles, grandparents, children, siblings, etc. The pack is a family unit, not just one random wolf constantly fighting to take over every other pack they can for DOMINANCE.  A group of dogs is not considered a pack, because they are all strangers to one another, not family members! If a group of dogs were lost and hungry, they would work together to catch food as a pack of hunters, not family. Once that food is caught, they are likely to fight over it to save themselves. Each dog has no emotional connection with any of their neighbors, they simply work together to get what each dog wants, which is food. Calling a dog a pack animal can have a lot of consequences later on, because people will begin to treat that dog as though they are trying to take over the family. The truth of it is, dogs only do what works, so if you leave food on the counter, they are likely going to eat it. If you want them to stop counter surfing, DON'T LEAVE FOOD ON THE COUNTER. The dog will not think they are any higher on the food chain than you do. Dog's should be treated as equals to people, or better yet, as dogs, because that's what they are, reactive animals, not humans.

 Wolves, horses, and even the dogs we try to control can easily over power and kill most people that come into contact with them if they really wanted to. Without all the metal chains, prongs to the throat, or special straps cutting into certain pressure points, we would not have nearly as much "control" over the animals we own and work with everyday. That's not meant to scare owners, just to let a little bit of cold, hard, truth sink in for a minute.

 True ownership of any animal requires patience, confidence, and a true understanding of your animal, whether it be a dog, cat, horse, or guinea pig. You can't just force them to put up with your human ways because you want them to. Dogs and wolves alike, are incredibly smart and affectionate to their loved ones,  and we take that for granted. If humans would take a little more time to really understand their dog and their needs, instead of the needs of the owner, the dog/human bond could grow to be so much stronger.

  • Normal to them, not to us!

Dogs do a lot of interesting things that most humans wouldn't think of reinacting because it's just not normal  to us. I do not enjoy it when a dog takes a whiff of my private area, nor would i like it any better to sniff anything of their's. So why do we continue to place our human emotions onto the shoulders of "man's best friend". By instilling our personal emotions into our dogs, we create more problems for them such as seperation anxiety, boundary gaurding, resource gaurding, bulllying, aggressive behaviors, and nuisance behaviors. If two dogs were allowed to interact with no interference by people, they may sniff, growl, show teeth, bark and lunge at eachother, or just show a play bow. One dog may show signs of stress and give a calming signal to the other dog. If the other dog was allowed to be a dog throughout their upbringing, they would likely understand the stress signals and show a displacement behavior in return. Certain types of breeds are known to have thier own characteristics, such as bully breeds or the nordic breeds who are known for their sassy attitudes! Even so, that does not give any dog or owner the excuse to ignore any such behavior that would cause issues for any other dog or their person. If a german shepherd bites someone, the owner is responsible for putting their dog in a position of feeling the need to protect themselves, the dog is not in the wrong. Dog's bite and nip eachother as part of a correction, if you do not understand how dogs talk to eachother, you must be careful to not put yourself, nor your dog in a position of getting hurt. WHEN A DOG BITES A PERSON, IT IS A HUMAN FAULT, PERIOD! WHO GETS BLAMED?? THE DOG! Be aware of your actions when interacting with animals, because it just might cause them to unnecessarily lose their lives.

  • Calming signals and the importance of recognizing them!!

  • Lip licking

  • Tongue flicking

  • Eye flick (look away)

  • Head turn (look away)

  • Body turned away from perceived threat(look away)

  • Head lowered

  • Sniffing the ground

  • Pawing at the ground

  • Shaking off

  • Sneezing

  • Scratching themselves

  • Squinty eyes

  • Long lips

  • Open mouth

  • Lowered or "half-mast" tail and ears

When a dog uses a calming signal, also referred to as displacement behaviors, they are telling the approaching dog or human to calm down and relax before coming into their personal space. A dog who is showing calming signals to another animal (or human) is doing so out of respect or to prevent unnecessary confrontation. Often times when a confident dog is acting offensive toward a calmer/ more submissive dog, the calm dog will likely turn their head away, lower their body, or avoid eye contact to become less of a threat to the other dog. Most humans don't notice when a dog is giving off these important signals, and move in to pet the dog anyway. After putting too much pressure on the dog without giving them any release, the dog is left with no other choice but to lash out, likely with a bite. (in this case, the dog would be using the bite as a correction to the human or dog invading their personal space. the dog is not aggressive, the human or dog is ignoring the many warnings that come before the correction. The human is at fault for being bitten!!)

  • Stress Signals in dogs

  • Panting when not hot or recently exercised

  • Yawning when not recently sleeping

  • Salivating (dripping or drooling)

  • Whites of eyes are visible (whale eyes)

  • Facial tension

  • Whining

  • Muscle tremors

  • Pacing

  • Scratching

  • Lip Licking

  • Stiff Tail

  • Closed mouth

  • Ears Back

  • No eye contact

  • Flat tongue

  • Paw lift

  • Short Lips

  • Eyes darting back and forth

  • High pitched barking

  • Avoidance behavior

  • Approachable Dogs!

  • Calm, friendly or excited behavior

  • Ears in a relaxed position on the head

  • Dog is making some eye contact, but not holding it for more than a second or two.

  • Dog may have squinty (crescent) eyes when looking at someone.

  • Lips are long and relaxed, with or without an open mouth.

  • No noticeable body tension and tail may be wagging or relaxed at half-mast.

It is important to be able to easily recognize when a dog is displaying these types of behaviors to prevent your dog (or any dog) from becoming too stressed. If you do nothing to lessen the pressure being put on your dog, the dog will be flooded. "Flooding, sometimes referred to as in vivo exposure therapy, is a form of behavior therapy and desensitization—or exposure therapy—based on the principles of respondent conditioning. As a psychotherapeutic technique, it is used to treat phobia and anxiety disorders including post-traumatic stress disorder."

If a dog is sitting in a hot car with no open windows, air conditioning, or other means of ventilation, the dog will begin to overheat. During this time, the dog will become very stressed and will begin to show signs that they are uncomfortable (both physically and mentally). They will obviously begin panting, in an attempt to cool themselves, as well as showing agitation, fidgeting, pacing, hyper-salivating, whining, barking, and even pawing at the windows or doors. If left long enough, the dog will likely urinate or defecate inside the vehicle with watery or bloody stool due to the extreme stress.

If you should ever see a dog, cat, gecko OR CHILD locked inside a hot car, get help immediately, and get them out however necessary. If you need to break a window, do it! By the time you see this type of behavior, it may be too late to save the life that has been left to suffer such a terrible fate at the hands of pure ignorance. Leaving any living creature inside a hot vehicle with no means of escape is animal and child abuse and should be reported and charged accordingly!!

  • Non- Approachable Dogs!

  • Fearful or aggressive behavior

  • Staring or holding eye contact for long periods of time.

  • Low growl, short lips, teeth showing, tension around mouth.

  • Stiff tail held high over back or tucked tightly under the belly.

  • Tension throughout body, face, tail, mouth and legs.

  • Body orientation is likely leaning away from other dog (or human).

  • Aggression = Agitation!! *not necessarily a death sentence for other dog or person receiving the bite*

The difference between Dogs and Wolves

What makes a good leader?

Dogs do not care to follow the strongest dog just because they can boss them around. If a dog is going to see another as a leader and someone they TRUST to follow, that "Leader" must show that they will protect their followers. True lead dogs will protect the group, find good hunting grounds, clean water, shelter, and would fight to keep their territory from being taken over by rival packs. the lead dog will put their family members in their place to ensure the safety of the group. If the other dogs act submissive, it's because they are showing mutual respect to the dog/ wolf they wish to follow. A dog or wolf will not blindly follow someone just because they can be overpowered by them. You don't have to be certified in dog training or have a degree in dog psychology to understand the basics and importance of reading your dog's body language.   If the other members disrespect their "leader", they will receive a correction, like with any animal who wants to teach a youngster a lesson. This correction will not include standing over the more submissive creature for minutes on end and staring down at them while constantly making direct eye contact. It is true that dogs will push each other around and wrestle to establish who  is stronger and who is weaker. That is their nature, and natural enough, but for people to try to play that role with animals, we begin to get a big head. If a human is to wrestle with a dog, they are likely to get injured because we are not equipped with teeth, claws, good balance on all fours, and proper canine body language.

 

What I am trying to say here is, it is ok to talk to your dog the way dogs do, that's what they understand, but don't think that for one second the dog will happily follow you and respect you just because you can beat them into submission. They will follow you for fear of the harsh correction, but there will be no bond, no true respect for your willingness to protect them and teach them lessons that they can one day pass on to their own kind. If you believe your dog will  only listen to you and respect your space as long as you "keep them in their place" then you are creating far more problems than you realize. You can teach proper manners in a much healthier way that doesn't just include using treats, but by understanding how your dog thinks. (This does not include using prong collars to give a "mother's correction" or "Alpha rolling" the dog either). The dog would not choose to follow such a "leader" who constantly tells the dog where to stand, how to walk, or where to keep their head. If the dog had a choice, they would move on and follow another dog, or they would start their own friend group and work together. *Notice I say "friend" group, instead of family, because current research tells us that dogs don't actually stay with their pups after the milk dries up.

Village dogs live quite differently than their distance relatives. (Knowing what we know now, which is that the village dogs seem to be the missing link between the ancient ancestors of our dog's, the wolf, and our current hybrids of hounds) they tend to behave differently and live more independently from their pups and litter mates than once thought. A mother living without human intervention will actually abandon her puppies after they are weened off of her milk. They become too much work to raise, meaning she needs more food for energy to feed them and protect them. Without a second pair of hands (the male dog is long gone by this point), she is  left with a hefty decision. "Do I starve myself to raise the pups and risk injury to keep them safe, or do I look out for myself?" Very often, the second choice is the one being made, and the puppies become competition for food and resting spots from that point on. The female dog goes back into her heat cycle and the circle of life continues. During this time the male dogs' are free to have as many partners as they can find. Neither sex is driven by a deep-seeded instinct to build a family and grow to protect a large territory, because there are too many other dogs around to protect it from. Granted, each dog will have a small section they save for themselves, but not a large portion of land like a wolf or coyote might have. The dogs also don't have the body made to hunt down a large prey animal for food, nor the capacity to travel across all types of terrain for miles on end. They are evolved to survive in their particular niche!

A true pack of wolves consists of a mother, father, and their puppies, cousins, uncles, aunts, grandparents, older pups, etc.  Packs are blood related families. You cannot get several different dogs of all ages from different families, rescues, or neighbors and expect them to respect one leader without question. Dogs will put up with a bully if they have to, or they will choose to keep their distance. But they will not blindly follow the other dog just because they can get away with being disrespectful. Some dogs are naturally more confident than others, but this doesn't mean that every dog in the household will listen to them or fight to take their spot as "pack leader". If two dogs do fight, it is likely over resources such as food, bedding, toys, females or males, protecting their young, but not necessarily for who is "ALPHA". Occasional scuffles may occur for who wants to be in charge or to teach respect to one another, but not every single fight will end in every other dog listening to one leader. The term "Alpha" can become very dangerous when humans use it to teach others how to work with dogs. Humans take and use this term very aggressively to over power the dog and make themselves feel more powerful over an animal that will not fight back. Most dogs will give up when you forcibly "alpha role" them, but few will never submit no matter how hard you fight them and lay on top of their body. This will lead to someone being hurt, most likely the dog.

"Alpha" is often used in the wrong context, such as with trainers or people not educated in dog behavior, to show the dog who is boss and to bully the dog into submission. 

Many people have been taught that this is true, that you can get any dog from anywhere and make them follow you forcefully or face the consequences. That's the equivalency of an orphanage. Young children are thrown into a household full of other children they don't know and new parents they have never met before, yet they are expected to follow the orders of their new family members without question. Their own feelings and physical comforts are disregarded and seen as stubbornness, backtalk, or disrespect toward authority figures. This results in more and more outrageous punishments which will only lead to worse behavior by the child. If they never receive any positive reinforcement for anything they do right, or the slightest recognition that they are a troubled teen and need professional help, the child will continue to act out. The adults 

teaching the child (or animal) are expected to understand the young mind they are shaping. Far too often have I seen the dog owners of today and even parents blaming their pet or young teen for disrespecting them or getting into trouble. Instead of seeing what the adult has done wrong, they blame every other person they've come in contact with like the teachers/trainers, groomers, family, neighbors, shelter, school students, the list goes on and on without ever understanding the one who is truly responsible for the undesirable behavior. Stop blaming everyone and everything around you and ask yourself what you have done to affect the outcome of any given situation. Your child, your pet, your family, is looking to you for leadership to guide them into a safe and healthy life. Don't destroy that trust with unnecessary punishment and outdated beliefs that you have to "show them who's boss!" and teach them to never disrespect you role as leader!

 

Reasons for dog bites...

There are multiple reasons for why a dog might bite someone whether it is a person or a dog. None of the reasons listed below will include the bite being the dog's fault, nor will I be labeling the dog as stupid, mean, aggressive, dominant, alpha, a bully, etc.

  • Intruding on a dog's perceived territory: If a dog sees another person or animal enter their backyard, house, or even walk past them on a walk through the neighborhood, they may lung forward in an attempt to bite or scare of the "intruder". The bite is most likely meant to be a correction or a warning to say, "stay off my territory!", not necessarily to cause serious injury. If the threat takes action against the dog defending their home turf, this can cause the dog to become more agitated and protective.

  • Intruding on dog's personal space: If a dog's personal space is being intruded upon, they will either walk away to get release form the social pressure or, if they are polite, they will ask the other dog or person to move away by using a calming signal. If the warning goes unnoticed, the dog might give a low growl or show their teeth as a stronger message to back off. For some dogs, they don't bother giving any signs of their discomfort and just go straight for the bite. In this case, the dog has been taught over time by people and other dogs, that even if they give signals to back off, the intruder will ignore it and move in anyway. If you push a dog for long enough, they are going to tell you they have had enough. Even so, if a dog bites you for being too close to them, it is highly likely to just be a corrective nip. That being said, the person who gets bitten will probably treat it as much more than that because they don't understand how dog's think. If the dog who bit were to be a shelter dog, they would receive a check mark next to their name, and would be quickly sent off to a quarantined zone. There, the animal would spend 7-10 days in a solitary kennel, with no exercise, play mates, or human contact, other than feeding them and to clean the kennel. After 3 chances (if your lucky enough to get 3) the dog would be deemed as a " Dangerous Animal" or a "Threat To Society" and would be promptly euthanized. This entire situation can very easily be avoided by taking the time to look up and understand the very basics of dog body language, stress signals, and calming signals.

* If a dog nips at someone, it is not a  sure sign of aggression; the dog is just protecting their personal space. They may not be very trusting of strangers, and rightfully so, if they get right up in your ace and never break eye contact. Socialization is very important to teach every dog early in life, to prevent behaviors that might seem unacceptable or even "dangerous" to people.*

  • Acting disrespectful during greetings (especially seen with a young dog meeting an older dog): When a younger dog runs up to an older dog without properly asking permission to come into their space, the older dog will likely nip or growl at the puppy to correct them for the rude introduction. If you see dogs nipping at one another, it's nothing to get excited or worried about; that is just how they communicate with one another. No one takes it personally, that's just how it goes in the doggie world. If a puppy gets corrected for jump up and chewing on their uncle's collar, they will eventually receive some form of correction. the older dog might put up with the puppy for a while, but after a while, those sharp teeth get annoying. The older dog might pin the pup down with an open mouth over top of the puppy's muzzle, or they may just nip the puppy on the scruff of the neck or the shoulder. Either way, the youngster will get the point before too long, and they will happily find some other way to annoy their elders.

  • Surprising a dog: If you were to run up behind a dog and randomly scare them, there's a good chance they would turn around and snap at your arm or leg as a reflex, and understandably so! If I were to run up behind a total stranger, or even my good friend, and jumped on them,  they would probably freak out and turn around to smack me, thinking they were getting attacked by something. It's a natural response, so why is it any different for dogs? Why do we treat dogs as if they are trying to kill us when they are just startled, but when a person does it, it's just a practical joke, and we all laugh afterwards.

  • Holding eye contact for too long: It is obvious to most humans that making and holding eye contact with one another, is a sign of respect. You are showing the other person that you are listening to them and you understand the subject that is being talked about. With dogs, however, it's quite the opposite. When you maintain eye contact with a dog, you are challenging them, not to mention the rest of your body language might add to the discomfort the dog may feel while around you. If you are looking at the dog, you will likely be standing over them or leaning in toward their face to get a better look at them. You may also be standing with the front of your body facing them, with your hands crossed or uncrossed, head forward, and mouth closed. To a dog, this all says the human is challenging, they are not looking away as a sign of respect for the dog's personal space and comfort, and they might be a dangerous predator that will try to hurt the dog if the dog is not well socialized with people. This thought process happens within seconds for the dog, and they will react before the human even knows what happened.

  • Resource guarding (taking away/ approaching a resource the dog wants to protect): This could be anything the dog likes, such as their bed, a blanket, the couch, chair, toys, a person's lap, food bowl (empty or full) water, meat, tissues/ paper towels, bones, socks, etc. This type of behavior can occur in any dog if they are not properly socialized from a young age and taught that it's ok to have these things taken away because they will get them back eventually. It is very important to understand how your dog thinks when they are protecting something of value to them, He/she doesn't know the human will give the item back, or is taking it away for the safety of the dog; all they know is that the item that was theirs is now being taken away against their will. If you are working with a resource guarder, you should never physically force them to give up their item! This will only lead in worsening the behavior and causing the dog to become much more aggressive when protecting what is theirs, as well as making any given situation that much more dangerous. Example: a child walks by the dog's food bowl and begins sticking their hands in the crumbly kibble. The dog who is eating during this time, has already begun to growl, show their teeth, and hover over the bowl. All the warning signs go unnoticed by the 4 year old child, and as a last resort, the dog stretches out their neck and snaps at the child. The dog makes contact, but does not break the skin. *remember the dog is only giving the child a correction, although it might seem much more aggressive than that to most other people.* The dog is teaching  that if they come near their food, they will be bitten. After the bite, the child will quickly learn to stay away from the bowl and/or the dog. Obviously there's much more emotional baggage that will follow the child throughout their life, but for the dog, all they learn is that if they bite a person, they will be left alone to eat in peace.

  • A mating pair of dogs: Often times, a female in heat will be very moody and somewhat "unpredictable." If she feels threatened by other females in the area, she may be very  "snappy" around other dogs and people. Much like human women, when they are going through hormonal changes, they cannot control their emotions and/or reactions to certain stimuli around them (males, females, heat/cold tolerance4, personal space tolerance, etc.) Again, the dog is not being mean, aggressive, or stupid, she is just going through physiological changes that affect her hormone levels. Pregnant females can especially be moody and protective of their personal space. They will not usually tolerate any unwanted company when they are close to giving birth, or shortly afterward when they care caring for their young babies. This is also normal behavior and a mother who shows this type of behavior is being a good mom to her pups by keeping them safe.

  • Non-socialized (feral) dogs/ dogs who are extremely fearful, dog feels cornered, defending themselves, fight or flight reaction:  Feral dogs are some of the first dogs to bite first and ask question later. This is just how they survive and protect themselves. In most cases, this won't involve a gruesome mauling, but rather a bite and release. Depending on what kind of situation you put on the un-socialized/ feral dog; you may get a few bites and scratches. In any event, the dog is not at fault. If humans get involved with animals and are uneducated, or just plain ignorant enough to put themselves in harm's way, then it is the human who is at fault, never the dog. It's very important to socialize dogs from all ages, breeds, and sizes. By keeping your dog well adapted to the world they live in (a human world) you are keeping them that much safer than if they were left outside all day or in the streets and were never taught how kind and gentle people can be. Any fearful dog can learn to come out of their shell with enough time and proper training, but it takes time on the human's part to understand that individual dog's limits. With too much pressure, the dog will feel the need to protect themselves and will instinctively go into flight or fight mode. When the dog is in this fearful state of thinking, they are not learning. It is pointless to train with a dog (or anyone for that matter) when they are not able to concentrate on what lessons are being taught. Pay close attention to what the animal is learning, not necessarily what you think you are teaching them. If you had planned on teaching a dog to sit by pulling on the collar and pushing the butt down, that doesn't mean they are learning to sit. What you are really teaching them to do is stand, because they are fighting against the two opposition reflexes you are pressing down on. *front of the throat and base of the spine* Remember, focus on what you are actually teaching the animal instead of what you think they are actually learning.

  • Leash reactivity and redirection: Dogs are generally more reactive on leash than off leash, especially when there is a loose dog running around and bothering the "tethered" dog. The reason why dogs get so hyped up on leash is because they cannot get their own release from the pressure being put on them. The pressure from the leash tension, the dog coming into their space, the reaction/ overreaction of the dog handler, the environment, and so on. Tons of things could be going on that might set the dog off, the loose dog being one of the biggest reasons. Dogs can be jerks sometimes, especially when they see other dogs who are tied u or leashed, they are not being mean, stupid, or aggressive, they are just being dogs. Dogs who bite the person handling them in this situation are generally redirecting. A redirection is the action of assigning or directing something to a new or different place or purpose/ to change the direction of focus. A leashed dog may redirect on their handler if there is a loose dog running toward them because they are in fight or flight mode. If the dog can choose to run away, they would. If they cannot, then they will stand their ground and protect themselves, as predators do.

  • Human playing the part of "Alpha" with a dog: This is a common reason for dog bites. Humans tend to think they need to act like an animal to talk o their own pets, when really this is just confusing to the dog. Dogs do not see us a see us as a wolf or a dog, they see us as a flat faced, two legged, pink, upright walking human. They also see us as reactive, loud, spooky, predators, and respond to us like a predator would when they are protecting themselves. When uneducated people teach other uneducated people outrageous and outdated methods such as the "alpha role", using a prong collar on them in an attempt "give a mother dog's correction", or to ignore the warning signs that the dog is uncomfortable and forcing them into fight or flight. All of these idiotic reasons for training (in my opinion) will cause the dog to react at some point, and they might bite. Even if they do end up biting the trainer or their person, this is an attempt to tell the person making them uncomfortable that they are....uncomfortable, and the person putting too much pressure on them with no sign of release.

  • Dogs playing together: When a dog is playing with another dog, and the play is mutual, someone may occasionally get a little too rough. If one dog bites down too hard, or pulls on a sensitive body part like the ear, the other dog will likely yelp out in pain. This is a well-recognized noise that means the playing will temporarily stop. The same thing can happen when a  person and their dog are wrestling around on the floor. Again, the play is mutual, meaning there is no aggressive body slamming or fighting for dominance between the two. If the dog bites or scratches the human, the consequences would be the same as if it were two dogs playing.  No one tak3es it personal, but the playing would calm down for a bit, then recommence when either dog decides to start up again. If the other dog/ human has decided they've had enough excitement, then they would likely ignore the dog, or the human can throw a toy for the dog to play with that doesn't involve close quarters with the hands.

  • Painful correction with leash, collar, training tool: I've witnessed my fair share of redirected bites when using an unnecessary tool on a dog. Albeit that was 5 years ago, and with my own dog before I got certified and started questioning the training techniques that were being taught to me at the time. Even so, if you use a prong collar, choke chain, slip lead, or shock collar (e-collar) on a dog, at some point during their training, they will begin to get nervous about the painful correction and they will start to act out against it. The dog may yelp, bark, laydown low in "submission", tuck their tail, wiggle around and fidget, or shut down altogether. Eventually, the dog might get so fed up with this unfair technique of teaching and they will finally lash out at the handler, someone standing next to them, or a dog they happen to be staring at during the time of the correction. They do not lash out because they have been holding a grudge against the handler, but a dog can only take so much pressure, and if you push them enough, they will eventually snap. When a predator reacts to physical stimuli, they will either bite or mouth in a playful manner, or they will bite harder and more aggressive in an attempt to defend themselves. When using tools that target the sensitive area around the neck and throat, the dog will likely feel as if they are being attacked by something. Humans think they can get away with doing anything to animals as long as it serves their needs, including legal animal abuse. If I see a dog bite back at the handler using the shock collar to train "aggression" out of the dog, I strongly agree with the dog in that instance.  Aside form the fact that I don't use nor condone the use of such tools, I know that there are some dogs where force just doesn't work in the human's favor. Take my dog, Adonis for example. whenever you get too rough with him in a situation where he is already on high alert, he'll let you know that force won't calm him down. The more you try to drag him, pop him, spank, him or yell at him, the stronger and more frequently he nips you If you remain calm, and redirect his attention with positive reinforcement (he loves his freeze dried kibble) then he is more than happy to quietly and calmly walk past the dog with no issues. This is because I have his full attention and he is able to learn, while still being fully aware of his surroundings. He is not only looking at me because of the food, because I can easily make his reward the forward movement of the walk. Either way, Adonis is a prime example that the more you fight him, the more he fights you. He's no idiot, he knows that a predator (me) that fights another predator (Adonis) = no one wins and it's a very stressful walk! 

  • Taught behavior (guard dogs, teasing, and neglect): For dogs who have been taught by a legitimate trainer, amateur trainer, Police K9 force, or other protective dog training companies, the dog is turned into a weapon. As if it wasn't dangerous enough knowing that dogs are predators who have the potential to kill, some people still feel the need to classically train these powerful animals to attack on command. From the police forces that require trained dogs to find dangerous people who are a threat to society to the everyday citizen who just wants a personal bodyguard to protect them. I understand the needs to protect one's self, but many people do not realize the dangers of creating or owning a four-legged weapon that is (in my opinion) the equivalent of gun being used in the wrong hands. You panic and don't think logically and send off your dog just like you would point and shoot your pistol at anyone who makes you feel uncomfortable.

  • Learned Behavior (dog has high prey drive and finds biting something enjoyable):

Any of these behaviors can begin at any time during the dog's lifetime and can be equally trained out of them. it's Important to understand that the dog that bites is not at fault when any human is present. They are just like us, reactive predators!

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